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If the slave cylinder seals were damaged or leaking replace them with new ones. Reinstall the slave cylinder ensuring the clutch push-rod seats correctly into the slave cylinder. Tighten the bolts and the clutch inspection and overhaul is complete. Routine changing of the clutch fluid is recommended by Ducati.

CLEAN


Everything prior to reassembly. Removing old friction material and grease helps ensure smooth operation of new components. Brake cleaner works well for this task.


REASSEMBLE


Clutch Housing (basket) - Using a new or good condition basket, reinstall the clutch basket. Align the tangs on the basket with the indents in the clutch holding tool and bolt the tool securely to the engine case. Use a medium strength thread-locking compound (lock-tite) on the bolts securing the basket: Torque to 24 ft lbs.


Clutch drum. The clutch drum is installed next. When installing the shim behind the drum nut, verify the pin and the slot of the drum and shim align. Place a small dab of grease behind the nut to prevent seizing of the nut to the drum.  Once the drum is correctly positioned, install the clutch holding tool so the teeth in the tool align up with the teeth in the drum. Bolt into place. Use a torque wrench to torque the nut to 136 ft lbs.


Clutch plates – Install the clutch plates in the same order the old plates were removed: 2 spacer (non-friction) plates closest to the engine casing. When installing the plates, alternate steel and friction plates during reassembly. The curved plate (if any) should be reinstalled in the space it was removed from.


Push-rod – Apply some quality grease to the push-rod needle bearings within the drum. Replace the o-rings on the pushrod. Install the pushrod.


Pressure Plate - Install the pressure plate over the clutch pack. Verify the pushrod is fully seated in the bearing in the pressure plate and the pressure plate is firmly against the clutch pack. Position the pressure plate so that the mark at the end of one of the drum pins is lined up with the marks on the edge of the pressure plate hole. Lubricate and reinstall the springs and use new spring retainers. Tighten the bolts.

​Reinstall the gasket taking care to have it remain in place while the cover is being reinstalled. Reinstall the cover.
Install the clutch holding tool so the indents in the tool align with the tangs in the basket. Tighten the tool retaining bolts snug. Remove the 13mm bolts holding the basket in place. If an excessive amount of lock-tite appears to be on the threads of the bolts, chase the threaded holes with a tap for a cleaner re-installation. Basket- Inspect the basket for grooves caused from the clutch plates impacting the basket. If the grooves are severe, the basket should be replaced to get the maximum service out of new clutch plates.

REMOVE THE CLUTCH BASKET (if necessary)

Inspect the condition of the clutch basket. If the ridges are very noticeable, these will contribute to premature wear of new clutch plates: the bigger the gap between plates and basket means more wear on the clutch plate tangs. Some wear is to be expected: it there is scoring or the ridges are deep, replace the clutch basket.
Use the 32mm socket on a ratchet, breaker bar, or impact driver to loosen the nut holding the basket on the shaft. This nut is tightened to 136 ft lbs.  Apply force wisely to avoid injury and equipment damage.

CAUTION:

The drum retaining nut is very tight and will take effort to loosen with a breaker bar. Personal injury or equipment damage is possible.

Once the nut is removed, remove the clutch holding tool so the drum can be slid off the end of the shaft. Inspect for wear on the teeth caused by the clutch driven plates knocking against the drum. Replace the drum if the teeth are grooved more than .5mm (.020”). Inspect for integrity of the pressure plate mounts. Inspect for fatigue cracks. Replace with a new drum if there is excessive wear or defects. Inspect the cush drive blocks (if so equipped) and replace any that are cracked or fatigued.


CLUTCH BASKET (CLUTCH HOUSING)

REMOVE THE DRUM (if necessary)

CLUTCH DRUM

Inspect the clutch drum for defects. Look for deep scoring where the clutch plates contact the drum. Newer Ducati models have rubber cush drive damper pads on the back: the drum will have to be removed to inspect the damper pads.

Here is obvious damage: the stud that holds the pressure plate on is broken. Drum replacement is mandatory in this case.
Install the clutch holding tool that arrived with your kit. Make sure the teeth on the drum align with the teeth on the tool. Bolt it to the engine as shown, this will offer maximum holding power. Snug the bolts but do not over-tighten!


INSPECT THE FRICTION PLATES

Remove the clutch pack: the clutch pack consists of friction plates and spacer (no friction material) plates. Carefully use the provided picks to remove the plates and stack them in the order they are removed. The clutch pack will be reassembled in the reverse order they were removed.
The clutch plates must not show any signs of deformation, blackening, or grooves.

​Measure the thickness of the drive plates (friction plates) with the caliper: then thickness of the plates with the friction material should not be less than 2.8mm.Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge. Maximum flatness error is 0.2mm .


If the drive plates and spacers are in good condition and the drive plate measurements are not less than 2.8mm these components can be reused.

The tangs and drum have excessive wear.

Gently worn clutch plates.

Check the wear on the tangs of the clutch plates. Excessive wear will result in a noisy clutch.

The tabs on the friction plate knock against the drum and cause the distinctive “rattle” of a Ducati.

Using the feeler gauge, measure the gap between the clutch drive plates and the clutch housing to check the clearance between clutch housing and drive plates: The maximum distance is .6mm. Change the plates and if necessary the clutch housing if this distance is exceeded.

Remove the 4mm Allen bolts securing the pressure plate. Inspect the condition of the bearing and change the bearing if there is too much play or rough operating when rotated by hand. Check the surface of the pressure plate and the last driven plate, if extremely gouged or scored attempt to use a flat surface and fine (400) wet/dry sandpaper to remove the gouges.

Carefully remove the pressure plate: the clutch pushrod has a tendency to come out with the pressure plate. Try to leave it in place if possible. Inspect the pressure plate for cracks/damage/wear.

INSPECT THE PRESSURE PLATE

INSPECT THE SPRINGS AND RETAINING HARDWARE

Measure uncompressed springs. Minimum length is 36.5mm.

​Change any springs which are shorter than that

Change the spring retainers at every overhaul 

After the cover is removed, inspect the gasket for wear and defects. The gasket pictured was installed incorrectly and was subsequently worn way by the rotating clutch. 

On occasion, the pushrod becomes stuck in the pressure plate and will have to await removal and inspection until the pressure plate is removed.

Replace the O-rings at each reassembly.


INSPECT THE CLUTCH

Remove the clutch cover by removing the 5mm Allen bolts securing the cover to the case.

Remove and inspect the clutch push-rod for wear and the integrity of the o-rings. If the push-rod cannot be removed easily, the inspection will have to wait until the pressure plate is removed. Here are pictures of a worn (top) vs. new clutch push-rod. The worn rod caused the clutch action to be difficult. Check that the control rod is straight: turn it on a flat surface and verify the deviation is less than.3mm.


Check the 2 diameters of the push-rod and make sure there are no gouges and or signs of wear. 

INSPECT THE PUSH-ROD

Inspect the slave cylinder:Remove the retaining bolts and inspect the condition of the slave cylinder and the associated seal. Check for:


  • Leaking seals on the slave cylinder.
  • Obvious damage to the slave cylinder housing.
  • Check for integrity of the seal.
  • Pictured is a damaged seal revealed when the slave cylinder was removed.
  • Replace the o-ring on the piston assembly.

​Dry Clutch Replacement

DUCATI DRY CLUTCH INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT

These instructions are for inspecting and replacing the dry-clutch found on some Ducati models. Newer models use a wet clutch and require a different procedure.

If you suspect an issue with the clutch check the listing of common Ducati clutch problems below. If it is determined to disassemble and inspect the clutch components, use the procedures outlined.  The tools in the kit will enable a quick and easy clutch component replacement (hub, drum and plates).


In addition to the contents of the kit, a ½” drive breaker bar or impact driver will be required along with 4mm and 5mm Allen wrenches for removing fasteners. Clutch replacement is straightforward and easy to accomplish. Ducati recommends replacing the O-rings on the pushrod and the spring retainers on the pressure plate springs at every overhaul.


Faulty clutch operation is not always the result of worn plates. If you find something during your disassembly and inspection such as a worn push-rod/bearing, it could be the friction plates are acceptable for further service. Be sure to measure the friction plates as directed.


Secure the bike: a side-stand, paddock stand, or lift is great ways to secure the bike. If using a ½” breaker bar or ratchet, a generous amount of force will be used when loosening the 32mm nut holding the clutch basket in place. Place the bike in gear if using the side stand; to help prevent the bike from rolling while accomplishing work.


COMMON CLUTCH ISSUES:


Clutch does not disengage may be caused by:

  • excessive play of the clutch lever
  • distorted clutch plates
  • incorrect spring tension
  • faulty clutch mechanism


A clutch that slips:

  • Insufficient play in the clutch lever
  • worn clutch plates
  • weakened springs
  • faulty clutch mechanism
  • excessive wear of the hub of clutch housing


A noisy clutch can be caused by:

  • excessive play between the primary drive gears
  • damaged primary drive gear teeth
  • excessive play between the drive plate tabs and clutch housing
  • worn gear/clutch housing bearings
  • worn cush-drive rubber pads
  • the presence of metal particles (filings)  on the gear teeth)

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