Keep the chain lubricated: even though there is grease sealed behind the O-ring, the other parts of the chain are in need of lubrication especially where the chain rollers make contact with the sprockets. Lubricate every few hundred miles: more in dirty/wet conditions. What you use is up to you. Most of us have experience with using a particular lubricant from WD-40 to 90wt gear oil and everything in between. Heavy oils tend to fling onto the wheel, the leg, or anything else in the “fling path”. Dry climates are ideal for Chain Wax. It goes on easy, dries quickly and doesn’t leave the huge residue on other motorcycle (and human) parts. Other climates and riding conditions will require other lubricants.
While maintaining the base of the Profi Laser Alignment Tool flat against the sprocket, slowly rotate the tool or the wheel so the laser light “walks” up the length of the chain. If the light from the Profi Laser Alignment Tool starts to land on other parts of the chain (moves right or left with respect to the chain), the wheel isn’t aligned. Slowly and carefully turn the adjusting bolts on the swing arm to bring the wheel in alignment.
Once the chain (and wheel) is aligned, verify the 1” (32mm) of free play in the chain. With the new chain, check the slack after the first few hundred miles and every time the chain gets lubricated thereafter.
Many motorcycles have alignment marks on the swing arm to help in this adjustment. Start by tightening the alignment bolts alternate on either side of the wheel. The goal is to adjust the wheel (move it rearwards in the swing arm) evenly so the wheel remains aligned. The alignment marks on the swing arm aid in this task.
Remember to alternate sides when tightening up the chain: the chain can get over tight very quickly. As the chain approaches the proper amount of travel, start checking the alignment using the Profi Laser Alignment Tool.
The correct tension insures safety for the rider and maximum service life for the components. When a chain is too tight it puts unnecessary loads on the sprockets, counter-shaft bearings, and counter-shaft seals. A too tight motorcycle chain can stretch in places and lead to the kinking of links, which are a sign of a damaged/worn out chain.
A chain that is run too loose has the potential to fly off the sprockets, which doesn’t have good results for the bike or the rider. A loose chain can cause excessive free play (slop) in the drive line, which causes lurching under acceleration as the excess is taken up. Proper adjustment of the chain is something done infrequently yet is vitally important to long, trouble free operation.
Turn the Profi Laser Alignment Tool on to see a red laser light projecting out of one end. Set the base of the Profi Laser Alignment Tool flat against the sprocket (verify the base is FLAT against the sprocket). Note where the laser light lands on the chain: when the rear wheel and chain are properly aligned the laser light will hit on the same part of the chain all along the chain’s length.
If the rear wheel was loosened the chain is now too loose and requires adjustment. The next step is to adjust the tension on the chain and align it using the Profi-Laser alignment tool. A properly adjusted and aligned chain (rear wheel) will give maximum life and performance of your motorcycle. This is a continuous adjustment: you can’t adjust the tension independently of the alignment. So check the alignment frequently as you adjust the chain tension. As the slack comes out of the chain, it is a good idea to turn each adjuster ¼ turn at a time until the proper alignment and tension on the chain are reached.Now the new chain is on and riveted. The next step is to adjust the tension on the chain and align it using the Profi-Laser alignment tool. This is a continuous adjustment: you can’t adjust the tension independently of the alignment. So check the alignment frequently as you adjust the chain tension.
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